A full day in Langres was planned as one of my rest-and-tourism days. This plan was greatly helped by the lovely Airbnb apartment I had; I could cook all my meals, and I dawdled the morning away reading one of the books in the apartment - one I had been meaning to read ever since my trip to Martinique. In fact, I just might have a copy already at home!
Langres was the birthplace of Jeanne Mance, a nurse who is remembered here as the co-founder of the city of Montreal (along with Maisonneuve). Her story is interesting as she was not a nun, although she worked closely with sisters. She was absolutely dedicated to providing hospital care in the new settlement.
The eighteenth century writer Diderot was also born in Langres and there is a museum in his honour. He is the principal author of an enormous work, l’Encyclopédie, an 35 volume effort with 140 collaborators to gather as much of contemporary knowledge as possible. Diderot was quite opinionated and was persecuted on and off for putting a liberal spin on many of the articles. He tried somewhat to hide his more radical thoughts by including links. For instance, an article on ‘anthrophages’ (a polite way of saying cannibals) sends readers through links to articles on sacrifice, altar and holy communion! The museum has a somewhat incomplete set of the original books, published over a period of 25 years (readers could subscribe to get them as they came out).
In the middle of the old city, but unobtrusively situated, is what I thought a very successful new structure built around an old chapel to house the city’s museum.
Langres is well-known because it is still a completely walled city (well, except for its modern suburbs!) It sits on a height of land, and was originally a Gallic oppidum. Then a Roman strong place, then a strong place against a whole string of peoples entering France from the north or the east. Upgraded over the years, the current walls are mainly 16th century. Photos of a gate and a view of the industrial zone from the walls. In the past Langres was known for making knives (coutellerie), now it specializes in plastics (industries plasturgiques).
Langres is also famous for its local cheese. Soft, runny, strong. Yum.
Thanks for mentioning the connection to Jeanne Mance. And for teaching me a new word: oppidum! That cheese looks ... interesting. Turns out you had a beautiful day to be a tourist!
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