Thursday April 16. Troyes. (10.6km)

 Troyes is lovely! I’m staying in the heart of the historical centre. First thing this morning, after catching up on trip planning and blog writing thanks to excellent internet connectivity, was a visit to Les Halles, the daily market of Troyes.  Extra difficult not to buy too much!  I’ve got potatoes gratin, white asparagus, mâche, pleurotes, two kinds of cheese and gougères (cheese puffs).

Then some wandering around the streets where many 16th century buildings are in great condition. I think some years ago the city poured money and a lot of careful attention into preservation and beautification.

There are many churches in old Troyes - more than I managed to visit - and they all have stained glass windows, many of which are sixteenth century. Here is the cathedral, begun in 1208. Every window shines with colour.

Another church that amazes with its windows is the Basilica of St Urbain (begun late 13th century). All the windows in this photo are 16th century. They were particularly fond at that time of ‘grisaille’ which was done in all shades, not just grey. Stepping in to the Basilica was like stepping in to a jewel box.

Today was supposed to be in part a rest day, and I took that a bit too seriously, having a much too good afternoon sleep. I did have time to see the glass museum with examples from the fourth century to the present.  In the 16th century wealthy households included glass scenes in their windows. 

And here is another lovely boat scene, this time from a window in an abbey refectory. Saint Augustine crossing to Africa, dated 1500. Reminds me of Wynkin, Blynkin and Nod, if you know that children’s poem!

The glass museum is in the Hôtel Dieu, a hospital founded in 1157, rebuilt in the 18th century, and still part of a teaching hospital complex. The apothecary room is exactly as it was in the 18th century when doctors and nuns made the medications. I have never seen such a complete collection; imagine a square room about 15x15 feet (5x5 metres) with all four walls covered in these porcelain and wooden containers labelled and beautifully painted for plants and other ingredients.